Elsien's Traveblogue
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Florence Monday 23rd February 2009
It's almost 'Goodbye Florence'. Going back to Brussels on Wednesday, London and Harlow Friday night … Tuesday will be a hectic day, trying to squeeze in the Uffizi again, the Bargello and maybe the Academia … They are on the list because I have to look at some of the paintings and sculptures there again, because of my course … I have managed to do a fair bit of studying while I was here, an Open University Master's Degree in Art History, the first module of which concentrates around Caravaggio, who mainly worked in Rome, but some of his paintings are here in Florence, as of of his patrons was a Medici ambassador. I have always been fascinated by the Medici and of course I have now been able to indulge that taste here … The number of churches and chapels here that sport the Medici 'balls' – I think I should do Mastermind on this family …
Back to work next Tuesday. The language school in Brussels has finally organised me classes at the European Commission in English for Negotiations and Interventions in Meetings; I also have a few training days with the Commission on Writing for Media and Public. However, it's not enough to keep me in the lap of luxury, so I will start to rent out my little flat in Harlow from 1st May, be dependent on J's hospitality and good will for May and June, then live in student accommodation at Docklands for July and August – I've got my old job back, but will be residential this time.
I'll try and get more well-paid work in Brussels from September, and a little 'pad of my own', but that's in the lap of the gods … So, my life is back 'on track' for the moment – I think anyone who can plan six months ahead these days is very lucky! Open for offers from September though! If Brussels doesn't come off, it's Italy, Spain, Turkey … anywhere with a Ryan Air connection to London, Brussels, Holland (much as I hate Ryan Air) ...
It's almost 'Goodbye Florence'. Going back to Brussels on Wednesday, London and Harlow Friday night … Tuesday will be a hectic day, trying to squeeze in the Uffizi again, the Bargello and maybe the Academia … They are on the list because I have to look at some of the paintings and sculptures there again, because of my course … I have managed to do a fair bit of studying while I was here, an Open University Master's Degree in Art History, the first module of which concentrates around Caravaggio, who mainly worked in Rome, but some of his paintings are here in Florence, as of of his patrons was a Medici ambassador. I have always been fascinated by the Medici and of course I have now been able to indulge that taste here … The number of churches and chapels here that sport the Medici 'balls' – I think I should do Mastermind on this family …
Back to work next Tuesday. The language school in Brussels has finally organised me classes at the European Commission in English for Negotiations and Interventions in Meetings; I also have a few training days with the Commission on Writing for Media and Public. However, it's not enough to keep me in the lap of luxury, so I will start to rent out my little flat in Harlow from 1st May, be dependent on J's hospitality and good will for May and June, then live in student accommodation at Docklands for July and August – I've got my old job back, but will be residential this time.
I'll try and get more well-paid work in Brussels from September, and a little 'pad of my own', but that's in the lap of the gods … So, my life is back 'on track' for the moment – I think anyone who can plan six months ahead these days is very lucky! Open for offers from September though! If Brussels doesn't come off, it's Italy, Spain, Turkey … anywhere with a Ryan Air connection to London, Brussels, Holland (much as I hate Ryan Air) ...
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Saturday 21st February 2009, Florence
Phfffww, I've done it! I was late starting today, couldn't get going somehow, but it was another glorious day, so I walked out of Florence up into the hills beyond to Fiesole, quite a walk – and a climb, must have been between 10 and 15 km there and back.
It was lovely though, amazing how quickly, once you are out of Florence, which doesn't take long as it's only a small city, you are really in the Tuscany countryside. It's definitely spring here!
Look at the pictures! Shame it was so hazy, so you couldn't really see Florence very well – the Duomo was only just about visible in the haze. Easy day tomorrow, I think, knee will want a bit of a rest!
Phfffww, I've done it! I was late starting today, couldn't get going somehow, but it was another glorious day, so I walked out of Florence up into the hills beyond to Fiesole, quite a walk – and a climb, must have been between 10 and 15 km there and back.
It was lovely though, amazing how quickly, once you are out of Florence, which doesn't take long as it's only a small city, you are really in the Tuscany countryside. It's definitely spring here!
Look at the pictures! Shame it was so hazy, so you couldn't really see Florence very well – the Duomo was only just about visible in the haze. Easy day tomorrow, I think, knee will want a bit of a rest!
Friday, February 20, 2009
Friday 20th February 2009 Florence
Weather is still lovely and sunny, makes going out in this beautiful city a real pleasure.
Had a look at Santa Maria Maggiore – not often open and when I finally got in there, rather disappointing. It's one of the older churches in Florence and I had hoped to find some more Masaccio frescoes there, as documented by Vasari, but they've all gone and most of the paintings are 17th and 18th century stuff, not something I find hugely interesting.
I did spend a good hour in a wonderful bookshop though and managed to get away with only one book, on the history of Florence, a bargain at 5€ (The money is not the issue, but the weight: Ryan Air has a problem with my books!)
Then off to the Santissima Annunziata, equally hard to get into. It's very much a working church, so when it's open, there's usually a Mass going on. There wasn't this afternoon, but even during my visit a small group of women started to pray and sing in one of the small side chapels, so I left. It's another 15th / 16th century Medici church, paid for by Piero 'the Gouty', at least the bottom half – the most ebullient Baroque has been superimposed on it later. The entrance atrium is still quite intact, with some of the original frescoes still there.
It's next to the Ospedale degli Innocenti, a 'foundling hospital' or orphanage, designed by Brunelleschi, another 'first of its kind' Renaissance building. The blue 'medallions' above the arches with pictures of swaddled babes are by Andrea della Robbia. Each babe appears to be different, quite cute. They are all on a most charming square, one of the nicer Florentine ones. I like sitting on the steps in the sun (when there are not too many drunken down-and-outs there, there must be a shelter in the church, a bit like St Martin in-the-Fields in London, Trafalgar Square) or having coffee in the Trattoria dei due Fontane.
Am making progress with my Caravaggio research too. Am almost ready to go back to Brussels. Another five days... Am planning a massive walk into the hills up above Florence to Fiesole tomorrow, will keep you posted.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Thursday 19th February 2009, Florence
I haven't written anything for a few days a) because J was here and we had better things to do and b) because after he left I subscribed to a week's WiFi at the Internet café next-door so that I could get into the research I am supposed to be doing on Caravaggio. I found rather a lot of articles, which I am slowly downloading and reading in the evening. Study had to take precedence over tourism for a day or two, but I've sorted myself again now and I'm studying for an hour or two in the morning, then going off wandering about Florence before sticking myself into the Internet café for a few hours again early evening. Hope this will work …
The weather has got beautiful again, sunny and not even that cold, 8°C or thereabouts. Unfortunately it's half term or pre-Carnival time for a lot of countries, so there are crowds of tourists about. Hate to think what it's like here in the summer...
Went to San Marco, the Florentine church, monastery and museum, built under Medici patronage and home to Fra Angelico and his beautiful frescoes and panels. It also, for a while, housed the infamous monk Savonarola, the scourge of Florence at the end of 15th century, who first helped cause the exile of the Medici but was finally burnt on the Piazza de Signoria himself. The Medici had a palazzo next to the church, a newer version is still there, but this is now the Court of Assises. Michelangelo got his start in life by being given a spot in the garden with the Medici sculptor Bertoldo, pupil of Donatello. The garden is still there, but you cannot get or even see into it. Loved the Fra Angelico panels – all gold and holy faces.
Lunch-break over, going out in the sun for a bit now!
Only another week here ...
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Tuesday 17th February 2009
Had a wonderful St Valentine's weekend with J. The weather had got quite cold all of a sudden, so walking around was a bit of an effort; also I think many Italians had decided to get married in Florence this weekend as there seemed to be confetti everywhere and tourists, tourists, tourists wherever we went …
We managed to escape them doing a long walk by the river Arno – the light was just wonderful – between pink, violet and purple. We also stumbled upon some delightful chapels unexpectedly: one, dedicated to St Martin and the 'deserving' poor of Florence, was decorated with the most amazing frescoes by Ghirlandaio. I also managed to show J. the frescoes in Santa Maria Novella, which I really like. We saw the church of Dante – a bit sad - and his so-called house (a copy) where they had done as much as they could with very little – certainly not much original Dante-esque. We got to see the Badia, Florence's original cathedral, only open on Monday afternoons, with fantastic frescoes in the cloister of the life of St Benedict. I know little about him so am having to do some research.
We had some lovely meals out, one in a fairly touristy place on St Valentine's Day: you've never seen anything like it – food was good but service incredible: they must have turned each table over three times! Last night went to neighbourhood restaurant where service was much more laid back and food just as good. We had far more to eat and drink for less than the other place and paid less.
Now back on my own again, so taking stock of what I still have to do and see here. The weather has changed again: not quite raining, but more or less drizzling all the time. It's warmer than over the weekend though...
Had a wonderful St Valentine's weekend with J. The weather had got quite cold all of a sudden, so walking around was a bit of an effort; also I think many Italians had decided to get married in Florence this weekend as there seemed to be confetti everywhere and tourists, tourists, tourists wherever we went …
We managed to escape them doing a long walk by the river Arno – the light was just wonderful – between pink, violet and purple. We also stumbled upon some delightful chapels unexpectedly: one, dedicated to St Martin and the 'deserving' poor of Florence, was decorated with the most amazing frescoes by Ghirlandaio. I also managed to show J. the frescoes in Santa Maria Novella, which I really like. We saw the church of Dante – a bit sad - and his so-called house (a copy) where they had done as much as they could with very little – certainly not much original Dante-esque. We got to see the Badia, Florence's original cathedral, only open on Monday afternoons, with fantastic frescoes in the cloister of the life of St Benedict. I know little about him so am having to do some research.
We had some lovely meals out, one in a fairly touristy place on St Valentine's Day: you've never seen anything like it – food was good but service incredible: they must have turned each table over three times! Last night went to neighbourhood restaurant where service was much more laid back and food just as good. We had far more to eat and drink for less than the other place and paid less.
Now back on my own again, so taking stock of what I still have to do and see here. The weather has changed again: not quite raining, but more or less drizzling all the time. It's warmer than over the weekend though...
Friday, February 13, 2009
Florence, Friday 13th February 2009
Oops, Friday 13th! Still, so far nothing untoward has happened and as I was born on a Friday 13th, I don't really believe in this superstition – unless my whole life has been a string of accidents?
Went to look at almost the last church on my list, Santo Spirito – one more to go, the Badia, only open on Monday afternoons. Santo Spirito is the sister church of San Lorenzo where I went yesterday, in that it has the same architect, Brunelleschi, who pioneered his mathematical designs in these two churches.
My Calvinist self prefers San Lorenzo, which is starker and more 'classical'; Santo Spirito is warmer though, with a host of side chapels dedicated by local influential families, whose palazzos I admired on the way there. The most famous painting here is by Filippino Lippi, whose paintings and frescoes I love for their Florentine setting amongst other things: this one shows the donors, a grand local couple, adoring the Holy Family against the background of their own palazzo and the local bridge and hills.
It's on the 'other' side of the Arno, which I really like, as it's full of more 'real', i. e. less touristy restaurants and cafeterias and not many tourists venture this far – the Ponte Vecchio and the Pitti Palace are their limits, even though they are only around the corner. This area is full of local people doing their shopping in ordinary shops.
It was another clear, sunny, but quite cold day today. On the bridge across the river I could see the distant mountains (must be the Abruzzi?), snowcapped and glinting in the sun – lovely! Weather looks set like this for the weekend – great, as I'm expecting J. to arrive tomorrow and I'm hoping to do at least one long walk! J. is staying until Tuesday, so don't expect any more posts until then!
Oops, Friday 13th! Still, so far nothing untoward has happened and as I was born on a Friday 13th, I don't really believe in this superstition – unless my whole life has been a string of accidents?
Went to look at almost the last church on my list, Santo Spirito – one more to go, the Badia, only open on Monday afternoons. Santo Spirito is the sister church of San Lorenzo where I went yesterday, in that it has the same architect, Brunelleschi, who pioneered his mathematical designs in these two churches.
My Calvinist self prefers San Lorenzo, which is starker and more 'classical'; Santo Spirito is warmer though, with a host of side chapels dedicated by local influential families, whose palazzos I admired on the way there. The most famous painting here is by Filippino Lippi, whose paintings and frescoes I love for their Florentine setting amongst other things: this one shows the donors, a grand local couple, adoring the Holy Family against the background of their own palazzo and the local bridge and hills.
It's on the 'other' side of the Arno, which I really like, as it's full of more 'real', i. e. less touristy restaurants and cafeterias and not many tourists venture this far – the Ponte Vecchio and the Pitti Palace are their limits, even though they are only around the corner. This area is full of local people doing their shopping in ordinary shops.
It was another clear, sunny, but quite cold day today. On the bridge across the river I could see the distant mountains (must be the Abruzzi?), snowcapped and glinting in the sun – lovely! Weather looks set like this for the weekend – great, as I'm expecting J. to arrive tomorrow and I'm hoping to do at least one long walk! J. is staying until Tuesday, so don't expect any more posts until then!
Florence, Thursday 12th February 2009
Had to do my washing today – I only brought a week's worth of knickers – so couldn't go out this morning until the washing machine had stopped running. Yes, Apartment David comes equipped with washing machine! They are now drying at a dizzying height.
Continued on my Medici-tour and looked at the Basilica San Lorenzo, the family church, designed by Brunelleschi. It is a real first of the Renaissance architectural marvels, cool, classical, with perspectival lines on a white and grey marble floor-plan, a splendid thing of beauty. It is more or less attached to the Medici mausoleum/chapel, which Michelangelo designed. I went there on Tuesday. Unfortunately, the Medici Library which Michelangelo also designed and which heralded the Baroque, is currently closed for renovation, shame.
Many of the 'ordinary' churches, those not on the main tourist trail, are also closed a lot, so I'll have to work out when the faithful are allowed in for Mass and join them.
Did a fair bit of 'random' walking today as it was a beautiful, clear, sunny albeit chilly day and Florence is a lovely place to walk around in. Have also been diligently studying and found that the Judith and Holofernes in the Uffizi, which I had thought was one of Caravaggio's most violent works, was actually painted by the daughter of his mate and partner-in-crime, Orazio Gentileschi, Artemisia. Now, here's a problem I am supposed to be studying: How does knowing that Artemisia was raped by her art teacher, Tassi, help to understand this painting???
Had to do my washing today – I only brought a week's worth of knickers – so couldn't go out this morning until the washing machine had stopped running. Yes, Apartment David comes equipped with washing machine! They are now drying at a dizzying height.
Continued on my Medici-tour and looked at the Basilica San Lorenzo, the family church, designed by Brunelleschi. It is a real first of the Renaissance architectural marvels, cool, classical, with perspectival lines on a white and grey marble floor-plan, a splendid thing of beauty. It is more or less attached to the Medici mausoleum/chapel, which Michelangelo designed. I went there on Tuesday. Unfortunately, the Medici Library which Michelangelo also designed and which heralded the Baroque, is currently closed for renovation, shame.
Many of the 'ordinary' churches, those not on the main tourist trail, are also closed a lot, so I'll have to work out when the faithful are allowed in for Mass and join them.
Did a fair bit of 'random' walking today as it was a beautiful, clear, sunny albeit chilly day and Florence is a lovely place to walk around in. Have also been diligently studying and found that the Judith and Holofernes in the Uffizi, which I had thought was one of Caravaggio's most violent works, was actually painted by the daughter of his mate and partner-in-crime, Orazio Gentileschi, Artemisia. Now, here's a problem I am supposed to be studying: How does knowing that Artemisia was raped by her art teacher, Tassi, help to understand this painting???
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Florence, Wednesday 11th February 2009
Made it to the Pitti Palace, a huge, ugly monstrosity of a building, home to the Medici family for a few hundred years. Mainly decorated with rather over-the-top frescoes in every state room, I don't know how they could have lived in it. However, their art collection is pretty good! I found two Caravaggios in their bedrooms and quite a few other famous paintings. After an hour, you really feel so totally overwhelmed and satiated with paintings that you have to call a halt. Not many tourists about, not even many Italian school groups, so I could look at paintings at my leisure.
The Pitti Palace is on the other side of the river, so you have to cross the Ponte Vecchio, one of Florence's landmarks.
Florence, Tuesday 10th February 2009
I have rather been avoiding so far Florence's most famous son, Mr Buonarotti himself. Maybe out of a kind of snobbery, because all these hoards of tourists are after Michelangelo, or maybe because I did rather a lot of Michelangelo last year, when I read all of the Irving Stone biography of 'The Power and the Glory' – have you seen the film with Charlton Heston? I saw it many years ago and only remember Michelangelo's tantrums!
Michelangelo's main tourist attraction, the copy of his 'David' at the Piazza della Signorie, is being restored, so the tourists are now reduced to taking each other's pictures by a rather monstrous fountain with statue of Neptune, nicknamed the 'White Blob' by the Florentines. I may yet have to go and see the original David, as it's in the Academia across the street from my apartment, not called 'David' apartment for nothing!
However, you cannot escape Michelangelo forever here in Florence, so I did have to go and see the Medici Chapel, where Michelangelo sculpted the memorial to some of the famous members of that family. I'd imagined the memorial to be in one large piece, but in fact it's in several bits. I had to study these bits last year as Benvenuto Cellini copied them in his famous salt-cellar. They are rather moving, I have to say: Dawn, Dusk, Day and Night, and sculptures of some of the Medici members. The Medici Chapel is sad in the same way that the Strozzi Palazzo is – the Medici family came to nothing in the end – it's even quite difficult to discern traces of them here in Florence. Before I came here I read a book, in Dutch, in an atrocious translation, by one of the last of the Medici family about his ancestors, and even he is doubtful about the continuing heritage of his family in the city they dominated for so long. Well, going to see the Medici Pitti Palace tomorrow, have to get up early for that, will keep you posted!
I have rather been avoiding so far Florence's most famous son, Mr Buonarotti himself. Maybe out of a kind of snobbery, because all these hoards of tourists are after Michelangelo, or maybe because I did rather a lot of Michelangelo last year, when I read all of the Irving Stone biography of 'The Power and the Glory' – have you seen the film with Charlton Heston? I saw it many years ago and only remember Michelangelo's tantrums!
Michelangelo's main tourist attraction, the copy of his 'David' at the Piazza della Signorie, is being restored, so the tourists are now reduced to taking each other's pictures by a rather monstrous fountain with statue of Neptune, nicknamed the 'White Blob' by the Florentines. I may yet have to go and see the original David, as it's in the Academia across the street from my apartment, not called 'David' apartment for nothing!
However, you cannot escape Michelangelo forever here in Florence, so I did have to go and see the Medici Chapel, where Michelangelo sculpted the memorial to some of the famous members of that family. I'd imagined the memorial to be in one large piece, but in fact it's in several bits. I had to study these bits last year as Benvenuto Cellini copied them in his famous salt-cellar. They are rather moving, I have to say: Dawn, Dusk, Day and Night, and sculptures of some of the Medici members. The Medici Chapel is sad in the same way that the Strozzi Palazzo is – the Medici family came to nothing in the end – it's even quite difficult to discern traces of them here in Florence. Before I came here I read a book, in Dutch, in an atrocious translation, by one of the last of the Medici family about his ancestors, and even he is doubtful about the continuing heritage of his family in the city they dominated for so long. Well, going to see the Medici Pitti Palace tomorrow, have to get up early for that, will keep you posted!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Florence, Monday 9th February 2009
1pm I put Lorenzo Ghiberti to rest this morning, next to his Dad, Bartoluccio. They are buried together in the church of Santa Croce, with such luminaries as Michelangelo, Macchiavelli and Galileo. I've seen whatever Vasari mentions in his Life of Ghiberti in Florence, have studied the famous Gates of Paradise as well as the other set of doors, seen the saints' statues Ghiberti did for the masters of the Mint and the Wool Guild around Orsanmichele, the stained glass windows in the Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore and in Santa Croce and now his gravestone. There is something very satisfying about being able to follow one of these Vasari Lives almost in its entirety – the work outside Florence, in Arezzo, is missing from my tour, but hey, you cannot do everything!
Vasari's rather dry descriptions really come to life when you get to see all the places he writes about. I carry the book with me everywhere I go. I read up on Giotto this morning when I looked at the Giotto frescoes in Santa Croce. It really takes you back in time, because, even if Vasari wrote about these works of art after some of the artists were already dead and buried (1548-ish), he was still a lot closer to them than we are and would have seen the frescoes and paintings while they were still very much in one piece.
I try not to get too irritated by the chattering, flash-photographing crowds – they have as much right as I have to be there – but why must they come in packs? And why do so many people spend more time on taking a picture than actually looking at the thing? Rotten education?
Florence is sunny if a little chilly today, but much warmer than Amsterdam, London or Brussels. Walking around is a pleasure.
8pm Tried to get to grips with OU material on Caravaggio but more specifically with how we judge and interpret a work of art. Do we need to know about an artist's life? I think the answer for me is no, we don't, but it does make the whole experience more interesting if I know who painted the picture, why, what he (the artist is usually a 'he') meant, what else he painted. I also like to know about the circumstances, the time, the place, the influences … This is partly my cultural conditioning and I am perfectly able to appreciate a painting by an unknown painter but it is enjoyable with Vasari in my hand to try and follow these people around Florence. Am struggling with the 'intentional fallacy' in the OU materials; I must say I have seen it explained rather better …
Went to Santa Trinita in the afternoon where I saw some luminous Ghirlandaio frescoes, scenes from the life of St Francis against a Florence backdrop. Will have to go back with a bag of 50 cent coins as you need one for every two minutes of light …
Also looked at the outside mainly of the Palazzos of the Rucellai family and the Strozzis. Poor Strozzis spent more time outside Florence in exile than in it – how stupid to oppose the Medici! They are fabulously beautiful buildings though.
Monday, February 09, 2009
Florence, Sunday 8th February 2009
Decided I'd have an easy day as I'd knackered myself yesterday and the day before. Did some of the studying for my OU course which had got a little lost in the frantic activity of discovering Florence. Then thought Sunday would be a good day for religion, so went to the Duomo for Mass – arrived a little late, but was still there for a good 40 minutes, savouring the atmosphere the Medici and countless artists after 1450 must have found when going to church. The cathedral itself is a little empty, most of the artworks have been put in the museum behind, but the ceiling frescoes of the inside of the dome are still there – crowded but impressive, done by old Vasari who is responsible for large parts of Florence. I also contemplated poor Brunelleschi's trials ans tribulations in getting the Dome built – re-read Vasari this morning before going.
This afternoon I went to have a look at the Jewish counterparts. They also suffered here in Florence, banished to a ghetto under Cosimo de Medici who was hoping for the title of Grand-duke of Tuscany from the Pope (didn't get it) and then the Jews more or less languished in this ghetto until the Unification of Italy and the need to reorganise the centre of Rome. There are now only a few (a thousand or so) Jews in Florence, with only one – splendid, though – synagogue.
Hoping to be able to put all this on my blog-space today!
Decided I'd have an easy day as I'd knackered myself yesterday and the day before. Did some of the studying for my OU course which had got a little lost in the frantic activity of discovering Florence. Then thought Sunday would be a good day for religion, so went to the Duomo for Mass – arrived a little late, but was still there for a good 40 minutes, savouring the atmosphere the Medici and countless artists after 1450 must have found when going to church. The cathedral itself is a little empty, most of the artworks have been put in the museum behind, but the ceiling frescoes of the inside of the dome are still there – crowded but impressive, done by old Vasari who is responsible for large parts of Florence. I also contemplated poor Brunelleschi's trials ans tribulations in getting the Dome built – re-read Vasari this morning before going.
This afternoon I went to have a look at the Jewish counterparts. They also suffered here in Florence, banished to a ghetto under Cosimo de Medici who was hoping for the title of Grand-duke of Tuscany from the Pope (didn't get it) and then the Jews more or less languished in this ghetto until the Unification of Italy and the need to reorganise the centre of Rome. There are now only a few (a thousand or so) Jews in Florence, with only one – splendid, though – synagogue.
Hoping to be able to put all this on my blog-space today!
Florence, Saturday 7th February 2009
11.30 am Just come back from the Uffizi where I spent most of my time looking at the Caravaggio paintings. They are all together in a room on the first floor where there is nothing much else as there are building works going on around. I was blown away by the extreme violence and realistic terror in the paintings of 'The Sacrifice of Isaac', 'Medusa', but especially Judith hacking off the head of Holofernes. The head of the Medusa, although an extraordinary work of art, painted on a shield and looking straight at you, is also full of that same terror, someone in fear of her life, in the throes of death. I really can see the point that in Caravaggio's case his violence, violent lifestyle are definitely something to do with his art or even that it helps to explain his violent art if you know something about his violent life. Freud would have had a field day with this man. The only other painting in the room is his 'Bacchus' – a poor guy who just looks incredibly depressed, surrounded by beautiful fruit and glistening red wine in a carafe and in a glass, but he just looks totally miserable.
Guido Reni also did a 'David and Goliath' – I haven't seen the original Caravaggio, but I have seen reproductions: this painting is just as violent. Guido Reni's, on the other hand, is almost laid back; his David is a bored dandy and Goliath has the look of Marvin the depressed android in Hitchhikers' Guide to the Galaxy. You can almost hear him say something like "Ah well, it had to happen one day, didn't it?"
5.30pm Absolutely blown away by the Masaccio frescoes in Santa Maria del Carmine. The colours are just wonderful and the people and their emotions so contemporary. There was a group of people who could just have walked out of one of my training courses at the European Commission -mind you, I think they were done by Filippino Lippi who also did some of the ones I was impressed with in Santa Maria Novella. The Adam and Eve are definitely Masaccio though and they are incredibly moving. I have seen Eve's face in modern photographs, refugees from war-torn countries, realising they have lost everything – in Eve's expression is also the realisation that she brought this on herself – astonishing. I was the only one with one other to stay for the film, which explained the connection with the church and the Carmelite order – I had forgotten they were a pre-Christian order, established – so myth has it, on Mount Carmel after the prophet Elijah and left the Holy Land during the time of the Crusades, settled in Pisa and Florence around 1200. St Peter was their Saint of choice as he was the first and so were they.
Walked round to see the Palazzo Pitti – a monster of a building, not sure if I want to pay 10 € to go and see the inside. Went back to this side of the Arno, crossing the Ponte Vecchio, now in full swing and crowded with tourists – they seem to be on full strength around 3pm.
Guido Reni also did a 'David and Goliath' – I haven't seen the original Caravaggio, but I have seen reproductions: this painting is just as violent. Guido Reni's, on the other hand, is almost laid back; his David is a bored dandy and Goliath has the look of Marvin the depressed android in Hitchhikers' Guide to the Galaxy. You can almost hear him say something like "Ah well, it had to happen one day, didn't it?"
5.30pm Absolutely blown away by the Masaccio frescoes in Santa Maria del Carmine. The colours are just wonderful and the people and their emotions so contemporary. There was a group of people who could just have walked out of one of my training courses at the European Commission -mind you, I think they were done by Filippino Lippi who also did some of the ones I was impressed with in Santa Maria Novella. The Adam and Eve are definitely Masaccio though and they are incredibly moving. I have seen Eve's face in modern photographs, refugees from war-torn countries, realising they have lost everything – in Eve's expression is also the realisation that she brought this on herself – astonishing. I was the only one with one other to stay for the film, which explained the connection with the church and the Carmelite order – I had forgotten they were a pre-Christian order, established – so myth has it, on Mount Carmel after the prophet Elijah and left the Holy Land during the time of the Crusades, settled in Pisa and Florence around 1200. St Peter was their Saint of choice as he was the first and so were they.
Walked round to see the Palazzo Pitti – a monster of a building, not sure if I want to pay 10 € to go and see the inside. Went back to this side of the Arno, crossing the Ponte Vecchio, now in full swing and crowded with tourists – they seem to be on full strength around 3pm.
Sunday, February 08, 2009
Florence, 6th February 2009
8.30 am Here I am in studio apartment David, an attic room within spitting distance from the Duomo, the Florence cathedral. I haven't been out on my own on even a little adventure like this for almost two years now – commuting between Brussels, London and Holland doesn't count. I was even nervous before I started: was Ryan Air going to accept my slightly bulging backpack? Books, I'm planning on doing a lot of studying here – my Master's in Art History starts officially tomorrow! (Ryan Air did accept the backpack, after a bit of rearranging, so it fitted their measurements). All was almost well: I had to unpack the whole thing again in security – it may have been my new baby-computer that looked suspicious on their screen?
I'm really excited, have made some proper Italian Lavazza coffee in an espresso maker and am off soon for my first real explore.
4.30pm Exploring is tiring, so am back in apartment for more Lavazza. Did a lot of walking and studied in detail the 'Gates of Paradise' as well as the other doors on the Baptistery. I was there early, so I could – when I walked past this afternoon, the square was packed with tourists and Italian school groups, more interested in taking their pictures than the doors. Most people glancing at the doors were Asian – the images must be as foreign to most of them as Buddhist scenes are to most of us Westerners. Almost no one even glanced at Ghiberti's other set of doors; mind you, they haven't been polished yet, so they look rather dark. As for poor Pisano's set, not even a dog in front of them – just a guard smoking.
I really love the panels, they are amazingly imaginative and beautifully crafted. I loved Moses coming down with the Ten Commandments, but also Joseph being sold into Egypt, and oh, well, all of them, really. The unpolished doors are great too – Jesus calming the Storm was one of my favourites. I could see why poor Pisano's doors were taken down for a bit to make place for Ghiberti's. Pisano's aren't at all bad, but he didn't have the advantages of time and progression of technique that Ghiberti had, I suppose. Read up on Ghiberti in Vasari's 'Lives of the Artists'.
Have to read up on Masaccio, Ghirlandaio and Filippino Lippi as well. Spent almost two hours in Santa Maria Novella where you walk smack into his 'Trinity' as you enter the door. It's smaller than I imagined and a lot pinker in colour. Was the pink red before?
Loved the Ghirlandaio and Filippino Lippi frescoes, in the Capella Strozzi where I spent an age getting chilled to the bone as it had started to rain when I walked to the church and the church itself was cold. Again, almost no one in the church, although when I left an Italian school group was just about to enter. It had stopped raining by then so I could look at the front of the church without getting drenched all over again. Clever solution for the top of the facade by Alberti. No picture yet, as my camera batteries had run out.
Modern Florence is full of Italian designer shops in Renaissance palaces: Salvatore Ferragamo's is particularly splendid. Did you know Ferragamo's started out making shoes for a Hollywood film studio?
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